Srinagar

Srinagar is the kind of city that takes you completely by surprise. You think you’re coming for the lake. Then you find yourself lost in the old city at dusk, the smell of woodsmoke and saffron rice drifting out of a narrow lane, and you realise the lake was just the beginning.

The city sits at 1,585 metres in the heart of the Kashmir Valley and has been the cultural and political capital of the region for over a thousand years. That history is still visible everywhere — in the hand-carved walnut wood of its old mosques, in the Mughal gardens that have been drawing visitors since the 17th century, in the shikara builders who still work on the same stretch of Dal Lake their grandfathers did.

Dal Lake is where most visitors start, and rightly so. At 18 square kilometres, it’s one of the largest urban lakes in India, ringed by the Zabarwan mountains and kept alive by a floating world of farmers, traders, and craftspeople who have lived on its waters for generations. Stay on a traditional houseboat — a proper cedar-wood one, not a hotel that happens to float — and your mornings become something else entirely. Mist on the water before 6am. A chai-wallah rowing up to your deck. The mountains slowly coming into focus as the light changes. No alarm, no rush, nowhere else you need to be.

The Mughal Gardens are the other reason people come, and they deserve more time than most visitors give them. Shalimar Bagh, built in 1619 by Emperor Jahangir as a private garden for his court, has 400-year-old chinar trees lining a central water channel that runs through four terraced levels down to the lake. Nishat Bagh, a short drive away, is larger — twelve terraces stepping down from the Zabarwan hillside directly toward Dal — and in the late afternoon light it’s one of the finest views in the valley. Come in spring and both gardens are in full bloom. Come in autumn and the chinar trees turn a deep amber-red that stops you mid-step.

The old city of Srinagar — the part that most tour itineraries skip — is where the city actually lives. The Jama Masjid, founded in 1402, is one of the finest examples of Kashmiri wooden architecture anywhere, its 370 wooden pillars each carved from a single deodar tree. Shah Hamdan Mosque, built in 1395 on the banks of the Jhelum, has a layered wooden exterior that looks different in every light. Walk these lanes slowly. Stop when something catches your eye. Buy a cup of Kahwa from a street vendor and drink it standing up. That’s Srinagar at its best.

Above the city, Shankaracharya Temple sits at 1,100 metres on a hill that gives you the clearest aerial view of the entire Srinagar basin — Dal Lake to one side, the old city below, the valley stretching out in every direction. Go at sunrise if you can. You’ll have it almost to yourself and the light across the valley at that hour is the kind of thing you photograph and then put the camera away because it doesn’t do it justice.

Srinagar is also where Kashmir’s craft traditions are most alive. The old bazaars around Lal Chowk and the Polo View market are where you find genuine Pashmina shawls, hand-knotted carpets, papier-mâché boxes, and walnut wood carvings — all made by artisans whose families have practised the same craft for generations. Take your time here. Ask questions. The best pieces don’t announce themselves.

Srinagar International Airport connects directly to Delhi in 80 minutes, Mumbai in two and a half hours, and most major Indian cities — making it one of the most accessible mountain destinations in Asia. Once you land, you’re 20 minutes from Dal Lake.

Our team is based in Srinagar. We know which houseboats are worth the price and which aren’t, which garden to visit at what time of day, and which lane in the old city has the best noon chai. That kind of knowledge only comes from being here — and we are, year-round.

Frequently asked questions about Srinagar

How many days should I spend in Srinagar?
Two full days is the minimum to do Srinagar justice — Dal Lake, the Mughal gardens, and a walk through the old city. Three days lets you go deeper, visit Shankaracharya Temple at sunrise, explore the bazaars properly, and spend a full evening on the lake without rushing. If Srinagar is your base for day trips to Gulmarg or Pahalgam, four to five days works well.

Is a houseboat stay worth it?
For most visitors, it’s the single best decision they make in Kashmir. The experience of waking up on Dal Lake — the quiet, the mountain view, breakfast brought to your deck — is genuinely unlike anything a land hotel can offer. The key is choosing the right houseboat. We only work with houseboats we’ve personally stayed in and vetted. Ask us and we’ll match you to the right one for your budget and travel style.

When is the best time to visit Srinagar?
Spring (March–May) for the Mughal gardens and Tulip Garden in bloom. Summer (June–August) for long days, cool weather around 22–28°C, and the full Dal Lake experience. Autumn (September–November) for the chinar foliage — October is particularly extraordinary. Winter (December–February) is quieter and cold, but the city has a stillness that some travellers specifically come for.

Is the old city of Srinagar safe to explore?
Yes. The old city is a living, working neighbourhood and perfectly safe to walk through during the day. We recommend going with a local guide on your first visit — not because you need one for safety, but because the stories behind the mosques, the craft traditions, and the architecture make the experience ten times richer. We arrange guided old city walks for all our guests who want them.

What should I buy in Srinagar?
Genuine Pashmina shawls, hand-knotted Kashmiri carpets, papier-mâché crafts, and walnut wood items are the four things Srinagar does better than anywhere. Avoid buying from touts near the lake — go to government-certified emporia or shops in the established bazaars. If you’re unsure, ask us before you shop. We’d rather you spend well once than regret a purchase later.